Sunday, January 21, 2007

Ubud

Ubud is located in attractive

environment of picturesque emerald green rice fields, along the edges

of deep gorgeous river in the stunning center Balinese foothill around

30 km from Denpasar town. Ubud got its name from ubad, which means medicine,

due to the fact that there are many plants in this area used in making

traditional medicine. Ubud surrounding, are considered the best on the

island, the traditional dancing and music is of excellent quality.



The trip to Ubud is a time change: from stone dwellings of antiquity to

a current center of fine arts noted for its painters. On the threshold

of Ubud is the village of Peliatan with an especially active dance troupe

and gamelan orchestra. These famous musicians have represented Indonesia

abroad in Europe and the United States. The village puri continues the

tradition of fine performing with private dance lessons for aspirants

from the age of five. it's delightful to watch a Legong instructor glide

through the motions of the dance trailed by four little girls, their feet

weaving patterns over the courtyard and their faces set in concentration

to the essential rhythm of the drum.



A quieter rhythm guides the daily life of Ubud. Each morning, farmers

set their fighting cocks along the roadside to bask in' the sun. Covarrubias

says they do this so the cocks will be amused watching the passerby: sturdy

women suspending hemisphetes of pots to be sold at market, farmers bearing

sheaves of rice, and nowadays passing automobiles. It's nice to join them

and stroll through the plentiful shops that line the avenue opposite the

old puri in the town's center. Ubud is excellent for shopping. Galleries

display contemporary styles by old masters of thirty years experience

and young boys who have developed a manner of their own-the "Young Artists"

style. Many shops have studios at the back where you may watch painters

at work.



For decades the serene beauty of this village has lured celebrities and

artists from all over the world, some of whom stayed to build their homes

here. Down the road at Campuan, the junction of two rivers that flow through

Ubud, are the former residences of Waiter Spies and Rudolf Bonnet, artists

who lived here during the thirties. With the support of Cokorda Gede Agung

of Ubud, these two painters founded the Pitha Maha, a society which encouraged

the young artists of the area, criticized them, provided them with materials

and encouragement, and patronized their work. Spies' own paintings inspired

the Balinese artists to abandon the rigid forms of the traditional style

and adopt such European techniques as perspective. (Spies died during

World War li.)



Since the turn of the century the art of North Bali had come under European

influence. The modern styles of Ubud and Batuan drew their inspiration

from the scenes of everyday life about them, besides from the classic

stories of Old Javanese literature. Many Balinese painters associated

with Pitha Maha are internationally renowned, like the late 1 Gusti Nyoman

Lempad, and others remain to this day among the island's most outstanding

artists: A.A. Gede S brat, lda Bagus Made Poleng, I Gusti Ketut Kobot

and several others, each working in his own style. An outstanding woodcarver

was 1 Tjokot from the village of Jati, 1 5 kilometers north of Ubud. Mas

and Nyuhkuning are other early woodcarving centers still active.



At the present time, Dutch-born Han Snel and the American Antonio Blanco

are the long resident foreign painters. They have galleries in their homes

where their works may be seen. Dutch-born Arie Smith encouraged young

artists to create bold, simplistic paintings from which arose the "Young

Artists" style with its bright colors. The patronage of the arts continues,

with friends and collectors intermittently sponsoring exhibitions abroad.



The Museum Puri Lukisan (Palace of Fine Arts), also called the Museum

Ratna Wartha, was begun in 1954 and opened two years later as a permanent

collection of modern Balinese art. Beautifully situated above a garden,

the museum displays sculpture and paintings in chronological order, giving

a clear view of the modern movements in Bali's art centers. In the early

seventies two new buildings were added, one being used for exhibitions.

Bonnet returned to Bali in 1 973 to help expand the permanent collection.



Ubud is the only important

tourist center in Bali outside the Denpasar-Sanur-Kuta area. There are

several hotels, and recently in 1975 electricity came. Many tourists like

to make Ubud their home while in Bali and travel out from there. Besides

the main trips, there are many roads and places near at hand that are

enjoyable to visit. The terraced fields and waterfalls in nearby gorges

invite one to leave transport behind and set off on foot. Any direction

is fine. The best-known walk is to the monkey forest, just south of Ubud,

where a troop with a fine-looking king inhabits the surviving patch of

jungle. A great banyan tree straddles the nearby gorge on the path down

to a delightful 13tthing place. The Pura Dalem on the edge if the forest

has exceptionally fine statues of Rangda gorging herself on young children.

The road south through Padangtegal leads 6rf to Pengosekan, a village

of painters since the thirties. It is well known for the varied and individual

style of its artists and was visited by Queen Elizabeth 11 in 1974.



Cross over the suspension bridge at Campuan, and turn left several hundred

meters beyond, for the path to Penestanan, main village of the "Young

Artists". On trips further a field on the back roads, a motorbike is best.

From Ubud, two roads, besides the usual one via Tampaksiring, lead to

Kintamani. One road goes through Payangan, famous for its lychees which

grow nowhere else in Bali. The second road is surfaced as far as Tegaialang.

Jati, where 1 Tjokot lived, is just off the latter road beyond Tegaialang.

There are several art shops along the road. Up nearer the crater, be prepared

to encounter thick volcanic sands left behind when Gunung Agung erupted

in 1963. Ubud serves well both the traveler who wants to get about and

those who prefer a quiet relaxing stay.

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